Da Nang
Da Nang was the landing point of both the French and the
Americans during their stints in
Vietnam. When the French established a garrison
in Da Nang (then called Tourane), more soldiers died from disease than the
associated fighting in establishing the garrison. There is now a small cemetery
dedicated to them.
During the Vietnam War, Da Nang was the home to one fifth of all US servicemen
based in Vietnam. This made Da Nang on of the heaviest defended cities in
South
Vietnam, yet it eventually fell to the North Vietnamese in 1975 with hardly a
bullet fired.
Da Nang marks the halfway point between
Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City and was the
first place to organize its own local communist party committee. The city is
fairly featureless, and if you are coming from the tranquil setting of Lang Co
beach,
Hoi An, or anywhere for that matter, Da Nang is an extreme disappointment. It is
a busy, dusty, colorless city, the fourth largest in Vietnam, and one of the
largest business centers. Unless you are in Da Nang for business, chances are
you will pass straight through. Da Nang does have a fascinating Cham Museum that
contains an excellent collection of Cham art. However, the main reason for
staying in Da Nang is in the surrounding region. My Khe Beach, the
Marble
Mountains, Hoi An and
My Son are all within striking distance of Da mange,
though it is more pleasant to stay in
Hoi An and visit these sights.
Lang Co Beach
If you are not planning on staying in Lang Co, if you do get a chance to visit
the area, you most likely will change your mind. The main street is lined with
palm trees and the ocean is just wonderful for swimming. Crystal clear waters
lap onto fine white sandy beaches. Lang Co is on a sand peninsula with a
sparkling lagoon on one side, and a long beach lining the South China Sea on the
other. This is one of the most
beautiful places in Vietnam, and is yet to be
developed extensively for tourists, which is probably a good thing.
Hai Van Pass
Traveling by road between Lang Co and Da Nang, you will have to drive over the
Hai Van Pass. This pass is created by a spur from the Truong Son Mountain Range
that extends to the coast. The views as you go up and through the pass are
sensational. Of course, because of the demands of this extremely mountainous
road does cause many of the local vehicles to break down. So if you are going
with a local vehicle, allow yourself plenty of time. The view from the top of
the pass is extraordinary and well worth it.
Should you be traveling by train, the train passes through tunnels at the base
of the mountain as well as along the shoreline, so you will miss the spectacular
views from the mountain top. However you will nonetheless see some awesome
scenery..
Cham Museum
The Cham Museum is the main attraction of Da Nang and is worth the trip, even if
it is from Hoi An. This old sandstone building houses an excellent collection of
Cham art and sculpture. The museum was built between 1915 and 1916, with Da Nang
being chosen due to its proximity to the themes of Cham architecture, and was
enlarged in 1936 as the collection of works increased. There are now over 300
pieces of sculpture and they are all original pieces of work. The sculptures are
located in ten different rooms which are individually named for the name of the
district in which the relics were found.
My Khe Beach
My Khe is the beach directly east of Da Nang. It is about
6 km from the centre of town. To get there, you must cross the Han River via the
Nguyen Van Troi Bridge. Turn left after the river crossing onto the main road,
then a right after a couple of kilometers, and follow this street until you
reach the beach. My Khe Beach is only 65 km apart and they are
connected by the same stretch of coastline of uninterrupted sand. This proximity
to each other makes it easy to understand why there is a certain confusion as to
which is the real 'China Beach', as it is essentially the same beach. In fact,
there are some who argue that the 1992 International Surfing Competition
actually took place at My Khe Beach!
Marble Mountains
The Marble Mountains are made up of five limestone outcrops in isolation from
the surrounding plains. Each of the mountains is riddled with caves and
grottoes, with some made into pagodas and shrines. Each mountain represents one
of the five elements of the universe; water, wood, fire, metal and earth. The
principal or larger mountain represents water and has a path to the top with two
entrances available to tourists. The main entrance is at the front while the
second entrance situate on the reverse side, farther down the road, provides a
much less strenuous climb. The mountain top offers spectacular views of Da Nang
and the other surrounding Marble Mountains. There is even a better vantage point
which can be reached by going through a small opening at the top of one of the
caves. Here you will also be able to see China Beach and Cham island.
As you start climbing the stairs that lead to the top of the mountain, you will
be approached by young children offering to guide you or sell you stone
carvings. The young guides are very good and very knowledgeable. All they
usually want as payment is for you to buy a small stone carving, which will also
serve as a great souvenir for yourself or someone back home. Some of the larger
caves have been transformed for religious purposes. Statues of Buddha have been
built in most of these caves along with statues of all the associated guardians.
Some of these caves are quite eerie with the smell of incense floating in the
air. One thing that you will notice on the walls are the large number of bullet
marks made from fighting which took place during the Vietnam War. During the
Vietnam war there was some heavy fighting in this area. Troops fought in violent
cave to cave battles.
In Huyen Khong cave, one of the large holes in the ceiling was caused by a bomb.
In this cave, there are a number of shrines, temple guards and Buddha statues.
There are still stalactites on the ceiling. Off to one side of the cave there
are two small stalactites that are believed to represent breasts, one is
dripping whilst the other is dry. According to legend, when Emperor Tu Duc
entered and touched one of the stalactites, it stopped dripping forever.
At the base of Marble Mountains there are a large number of stone
carving shops reminiscent of Mahalliburipuram, India. As you approach these
shops, you can hear the endless chipping away of stone. All these stores are
very keen to sell you a three foot high temple dog.